My Third & Last Day - Say It Ain’t So!
I woke up on the final day of my trip totally normal. My eyes weren’t glowing green. I didn’t feel like I needed an exorcism. Totally normal. So The Morguen Toole Hotel is indeed, totally safe and a great place to stay.
I had about 36 miles on my last day so I felt much more at ease and didn’t need to rush out. I had read reviews about Donges Diner and headed that way for breakfast. Greeted by the smell of fresh coffee and bacon, Donges was everything that a small-town diner should be. A couple locals enjoying coffee and conversation, friendly staff and a good breakfast! My omelet with fried potatoes was the perfect start to the day. I went back to Morguen to pack up and ascended up the hill to the trailhead. Meyersdale has a great visitor center with model train exhibits, historical info and lots of swag.
I had nine miles until I reached the Eastern Continental Divide. Nine more miles and then smooth downhill sailing from there to Cumberland. I wasn’t in a hurry to finish. I was enjoying my time in solitude - alone with my thoughts. I had only been gone 48 hours. If I’m being honest, some anxiety about heading back to my responsibilities was starting to surface.
The Eastern Continental Divide arrived faster than I expected! I had been picturing an epic climb, but it turned out to be just a steeper stretch. Still an accomplishment. There’s some cool info in the tunnel.
My next milestone was the Big Savage Tunnel. This was actually more exciting for me. It’s long but lit. I was expecting total darkness. The lights were a nice surprise. As I emerged from the tunnel, the view opened up into a breathtaking landscape stretching as far as the eye could see. I can see why people stop here to take it in. I did. Completely silent and beautiful.
The view from outside Big Savage Tunnel
Next up was the Mason-Dixon Line and then on to Frostburg. After tackling the switchbacks and steep street street up to Frostburg’s Main Street, I treated myself to a coffee at Mountain City Coffeehouse & Creamery. Since it was Frostburg State’s homecoming weekend, the town was buzzing with students and their families everywhere. I enjoyed the break sitting in the sun, reading and eating my Doritos I had purchased in Meyersdale.
On my way back down to the trail, I took a moment to check out a memorial for coal miners. It was really interesting and added a thoughtful touch to my day. Frostburg also has a strong trail presence with a cafe, lodging and a visitor’s center.
The closer I got to Cumberland, the slower I pedaled. I had, indeed, picked a beautiful weekend to do ride the GAP. I was born in Cumberland and lived in a small town nearby until I was four. Both my parents grew up not too far from where I was riding.
When I came to Cash Valley Road, I took a short detour past a little pond. My mom took us here to feed bread crumbs to the ducks. Nearly 50 years later and the pond is still there - as are my memories.
Just past the pond is the cemetery where all of my grandparents and my step mom are buried. I took a spin through to find their graves.
I got back on my bike and continued through familiar territory. From Cash Valley Road, the trail passed the steep barren mountains that I remembered from living there. I caught a glimpse of “The Fruit Bowl.” I came upon the Western Scenic Railway train stopped along the tracks at a Halloween display. Kind of like a Polar Express train ride for kids, but for Halloween. And it was here that I ran into my cousin - so crazy and fun to see her and her family! It’s also where I think I lost my bike gloves when I stopped to talk to my brother. A definite bummer but considering that’s the only thing I lost, I’m calling that a victory.
I was nearly at the end of my ride. I wasn’t asking myself, “Why do you do this shit?” anymore. I can’t say I wanted to continue to DC, but I wasn’t ready for the end. I basically drifted the rest of the way. I honestly don’t know if I will do this ride - or any ride -again. I hope I do, but my bucket list is diverse and time’s ticking. So, I was soaking it in and appreciating it. Appreciating that I actually could do it. I’m grateful to have decent health. I’m grateful that I can skip out on work and home responsibilities for a bit. I’m grateful that I had a ride home from mile 0. I’m grateful that my family doesn’t stop me from doing “this shit.”
